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hi guys 
have decided to delve into the brass chassis world 
have all the supplies needed ( i think ) except the motor mount bracket 
   
i am in the UK and have spent a couple hrs scouring the net 
can only find suppliers in the US  & Aus ? but shipping is prohibitive .
does anyone know of suppliers in the UK ?

thanks in advance 
Kev

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I've had this bodyshell hanging around my desk for a few months looking up at me and wondering when it's turn is going to be for a new chassis.

This is for a SlotIt SW pod, yes it's nice to print your own pod but I've moved away from that as it's a lot of extra work for zero gain.

This is in Fusion 360, I love doing 3D CAD as much as working on the cars themselves.

   

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A great forum for sharing what we have bought and built from 3DP.

I will kick off on a few that I have built.

Autocoast Ti 22 - from John May

           

Lola T 260  - From John May

           



What I really need are Jackie Stewart helmet decals Cool

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To give some explanation to 3dp printing this is a short introduction to one type of printer system the Fused Deposition Modelling or FDM is one of the 2 home hobby 3dp printing systems available (the other being SLA Stereolithography liquid resin printing). This article is an overview of FDM printers and ancillary equipment, to give a flavour, i.e. sufficient understanding for the uninitiated to go and look further.


How does it work?

FDM printing is in simple terms is a hot melt glue gun held in a gantry fed from a a spool of filament that can be accurately moved via stepper motors in 3 axis X, Y & Z by software generated for the printer. The object is printed by the print head (glue gun) being driven in the required pattern in fine layers onto a base plate with the print head rising one layer at a time to form the object.


Below is a generic ‘Bowden’ feed FDM printer loosely based on a Creality CR10.

   

Note: This a generic design and there are many permutations on feed, table movements, gantry styles and so on.


The control box (LH side) houses the display, all the electronics for the controller, and has a USB port and or a mini SD card reader and sometimes a Wifi link. The control box supplies power to the stepper motors, the heated bed and printer head.


The printer chassis has a moving bed (dark grey) which moves in the Y axis, a gantry (light grey) which moves in X and Z. The X & Y travel is from using a toothed rubber belt (black) on direct drive from stepper motors (green), the Z axis has a lead screw turned by a stepper motor to raise the gantry. The movement is held to each axis via hard plastic ball raced rollers (black) either side of the gantry frame (pic 2).

   

The filament (pink) comes off the reel (black) through the filament drive (toothed drive dog on the stepper shaft) which pushes it into the Bowden tube (yellow) that feeds the filament to the print head (gold). The print head has a cartridge heater to heat up the print nozzle, but has a fan (grey) to cool the upper half (finned) so that the filament does not melt until it reaches the nozzle and can be deposited on the bed initially, then the object being printed. To the side of the printer head and below is a second fan with a nozzle to blow cool air onto the deposited filament to ‘freeze’ it off and prevent it sagging. Shown in pic 3  with the print head shroud moved to one side is a pink cup being formed 1 layer at a time with pink filament.

   

FDM printer speeds vary greatly a cheap printer will shake and produce misaligned layers if run too fast so will have to be run slower. A good home machine i.e. an Ender 3 typically will print a 1/32 car chassis for a Slot It pod @2-3 hours, a bodyshell may take 12 hours or more.


Filaments

Typical home use filaments are

PLA Polylactic Acid made from corn starch resin
ABS Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (thermoplastic)
PETG Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol
CF Carbon fibre composite material with strands of CF embedded in one of the above or other base filaments

There are many more variations in material, colour and filler i.e. there is a wood infused filament.

Of the 4 quoted the one filament most people start with is PLA as it is the easiest to print, for novices, and relatively cheap i.e. @ £17/kilo reel. PLA can be used for slot car chassis’, bodies, and scenery items. ABS is stronger than PLA, ditto PETG which is a lot more flexible so ideal for rear wings with thin sections. CF is stronger than PETG, PLA & ABS and quite rigid.

Downside to the other filaments are ABS is more toxic to print so not recommended to print this indoors in an open frame unit but either in a sealed booth or in a workshop with extraction. CF will wear out the print nozzles due to its abrasive nature so the recommended upgrade is going from brass to steel nozzles. PETG can string where the nozzle has a fine string coming out in addition to the object causing flash so may need more post print cleaning and flash removal. ABS when printing thin sections is prone to warping and de-laminating during printing due to uneven cooling so careful design, print settings and the need for an enclosed booth to be considered.

Note: If you are considering running a printer for long periods, then for any filament used it is better to have this in a workshop away from the home as even PLA can be toxic if overheated or from prolonged exposure or build up of fumes from multiple machines.


Costs

FDM printers start around £90 for a 100mm x 100mm x100 print volume going up into the thousands for professional high speed/accuracy units. Typically a suitable home printer is the Ender 3 range from Creality which starts at @£180 for a print volume of 220mm x 220, 250mm and requires minimum assembly (typically @30 minutes) to have up and running.

Check out Amazon or Ebay to see how many 3dp printers are now available...


Other equipment

To support the printer a PC or MAC with an Internet link is required, to download CAD files from websites either free or pay by model, and software plus the updates.
Also,
Set of metric allen keys (usually comes with the printer)
Screwdrivers Pozi head in various sizes
PCBA Side cutters /Pliers
Set of feeler gauges
Paper glue sticks (certain filaments need help to stay stuck to the bed)
Paint scraper (to get the object off the bed after printing)
Sturdy bench or desk to hold the printer (no wobble)


Software

Two main items of software needed, a CAD program to create or modify and a ‘Slicer’ program to create the software code that is loaded into the printer.

The CAD or computer aided design software can be a free download or purchased software that will read multiple file formats (there are many) and create/convert files. Like cars there are many CAD programs available and punching into a search engine ‘Best CAD software for 3d printing’ will give you a selection and reviews to look at as new programs are turning up each time I check. YouTube is a good source of tutorials on various CAD programs so worth a look.

Slicer programs usually come on a mini SD card with the printer or can be downloaded i.e. the slicer program Cura. The CAD program or file download is normally a STL file or converted into STL which the Slicer can load, then add the printer parameters plus print setting to generate code to drive the printer. This file can either be sent via USB link, from mini SD card to the controller card input or Wifi link download.


What can it be used for?

Basically if it will fit within the print volume and it can be anchored to the printer bed then you can print most anything you can think off. Have a look at Thingiverse to see what has been designed and is available to download.



Support

There are many forms of support available to the home user ranging from forums, to YouTube videos, internet articles, how to’s and magazines, that cover most of the available printers. Support from the printer manufacturer varies wildly depending on the country of origin and the initial cost of the of the printer.


Finally how complex is 3dp?

If you are reading this article online then you have software skills to do 3dp from downloaded files, the rest is basic mechanical knowledge i.e. do you strip a slot car down to its basic parts fettle and re-build it so it runs better, can you diagnose handling issues? If you can do that then you have the basics the rest is experience from doing.

Below is a pic of my 1st printer from 4 years ago an Anet 8 kit for £137. Note the ‘Mosquito’ frame around it to stop it shaking itself to pieces when run fast. This was a massive learning curve to keep it working and is now a pile of bits as superseded by much better kit.

   

Cheers
JMay.

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Angus (Makers Muse) is probably my favourite 3D maker dude, today I watched with avid interest about a material he tried for his FDM printers...and it's been around for decades, is cheap and seems to work on all filaments without any fancy dan adhesion enhancers...

I bring you (or rather Angus does)...G10 - The best print surface you've never heard of...

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Well I've done something I should have done a year ago...bought a Prusa i3 MK3S+...super excited  Sun Wrench Cool

I already have two printers, Anycubic Photon Mono X (resin) and a Qidi X-Plus (filament) but the Qidi needs a major extruder upgrade

...make that three printers, I also have a Mars Pro which hasn't seen the light of day since the Photon arrived.

I bought a Prusa because I spent too much time faffing about with the Qidi to get good prints then it'll go 'off tune' for no apparent reason.

I won't be wasting filament on benchys and other wastes of filament, I have chassis that need printing.

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One  of the "sillier " highlights of the SSRC season tonight,  The Annual 2CV Grand Prix  Wrench

Four of SCX 's awesome little Citroen 2CV's,  on the Routed Raceway.   Even at 10 volts these have a mind of their own.....

Quick no,  Fun Yes  Thumbup   10 lap heats with the combined time for all 4 heats deciding places in the step up Finals.

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Guess where I'll be tomorrow?

   

My first dedicated slot car show. It looks like fun.

Ken

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Scalextric C4264 Ginetta G60-LT-P1 - Silverstone 4 Hours 2019 - Oliver Jarvis, Mike Simpson and Guy Smith. RRP £46.99. Available now

The announcement of the Scalextric Ginetta LMP1 was quite a surprise back in 2019. Scalextric hadn't released a full-blown modern LMP racer for almost a decade. The choice of the Ginetta G60-LT-P1 was an excellent tie-up between two British companies - despite the frankly disappointing debut of the car with the TRSM team, who'd bought Manor Motorsport. The Chinese team had plenty of problems and although the Adrian Reynard-designed chassis seemed promising, the Mecachrome V6 Turbo engine wasn't up to the job. Two cars were entered at the 2018 Le Mans 24 hours - both modelled and released by Scalextric in 2019 - the #6 retiring after nine hours and the #5 finishing last.

       

It was back to the drawing board for Ginetta - but the G60-LT-P1 would return for the 2019-20 World Endurance Championship season, starting with the Silverstone 4 hours in September. The two cars were now run in-house by Team LNT, fitted with the AER V6 Turbo that had a proven track record in the WEC. There was also a change of livery - which is nicely re-created by Scalextric for this latest model...

       

At Silverstone, the two Ginettas qualified fifth and sixth - comfortably on the LMP1 pace, a few tenths behind the second Rebellion - but over a second behind the pole-sitting #7 Toyota. During the race, the #5 Ginetta had a solid run to fourth place, five laps behind the two Toyotas. The #6 car had a hectic four hours - its mishaps featuring on the race highlights video below. The action started with the car shredding a tyre - bringing out the first safety car after 30 minutes. A second safety car followed when the hard-charging Olly Jarvis collided with the #71 AF Corse Ferrari GTE. The Ginetta did finish the race - 17 laps back in 28th place...




The season progressed with some optimism - although the other LMP1 contenders were highly experienced and at the top of their games, exposing the rookie status of Ginetta at the pinnacle of endurance racing. Performance was certainly there - and the cars led at the third round at Shanghai - but results are what matters. The team chose to sit out the trip to Austin to prepare for the big race at Sebring - but it was then that the Covid pandemic loomed. As an organisation, Ginetta made the difficult decision to prioritise its domestic customer motor racing activities and the LMP project was mothballed - it turns out permanently...

       

There's no doubt that the G60-LT-P1 was a good-looking LMP1 car, especially in the 2019-20 black and orange livery. However, it will remain nothing more than an insignificant footnote in the annals of sports car racing. But for those who follow the British marque, it was an exciting time - as it was for the drivers...



Whether Ginetta will return to the Hypercar era is a big question. Another is whether there will be more Ginettas to come for Scalextric. There have been four additional 'generic' liveries on the Scalextric G60-LT-P1 - plus a Batman-themed version - but many slot car fans would have hoped to see the GT4 and Ginetta Cup cars find their way into the catalogue. We shall have to wait and see... The 2022 range is announced in January.

The C4264 Ginetta G60-LT-P1 Silverstone 4 Hours model is available now. It is a high-ish detail model with working headlights and a full interior and driver figure - a perfect companion to the C4003 2018 Le Mans #5 car. The #6 car from 2018 is available in the C1404 ARC Pro Le Mans 24h set. This set-only car has working headlights, but blacked-out windows.

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Hello everyone,
This is my first interaction here so bear with me.
I have a Carrera GoPlus track. I have just upgraded it actually from Carrera Go to Go Plus. I have even bought the wireless controllers from Amazon last week, when me and my son decided we want to play again with this.
So, my issue is that the car from the blue lane is going by itself on the track, as soon as I put it there. I have programned the wireless remote like the manual says, I have downloaded the Carrera app for more fun and I have paired the phone with the track, but the car is still going at full speed by itself on the blue lane. The red lane works perfectly well. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks so much for your help!
Take care!

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