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Upcoming Events
WHO Autumn Stages - 28th-Oct-26
WHO Nascar - 4th-Nov-26
NSCC Leatherhead Swapmeet - 8th-Nov-26 ( - {4})
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Swindon Swapmeet - 10th-Jan-27
Our final third round race is some back-to-school AFX Formula One action this Wednesday. Autumn is upon us and we have the excitement of the championship run-ins.
A brand new track has been designed, inspired by the West Bend circuit in South Australia...
Doors open at 6.15pm for practice, heats start between 6.45 and 7 depending on numbers, so we can finish the step-up finals by 9.30. Race fees are £3 adults, £2 for under-16s. We ask all racers aged 13 and under to bring a responsible adult with them. Club cars and controllers are always available for no extra cost. We have suitable cars and a vast array of spares for sale in the club shop.
A question about tyre adhesives ?
I am known as the organiser of the Slotracer proxies but have been really surprised with the current proxy with the number of cars arriving whose tyres needing re-gluing, even before they get onto the track.
Personally speaking, although I tried more exotic types (Rubber toughened) Specialised slot car tyre adhesives in the past, I never felt that they have lasted that long. I have therefore tended to revert to the “off the shelf” Superglue which I use on my Club cars over many months without having to re glue them.
So I wondered what other people’s experience is, I can see that the common Superglue is rather hard, and that others tend to be “softer” and should in theory give a better ride properties to the tyres on the wheels, but is there a REALLY GOOD tyre adhesive which is soft and flexible and gives longer term adhesion ?
SCR
Slot Car Republic
Hand made, modified Ninco 40 cm. rail with added sensors, electronic new board and USB cable.
Direct connection from Ninco digital track to computer with USB cable. Rail with sensors to achieve a direct connection with the computer, by USB cable, bypassing Ninco power base, for races management. It works together with all versions of the Ninco Digital power base units. It allows you to play with all different options offered by the software (free practice, GP, championship, fuel consumption, lap or time trial races, starter traffic lights, disqualifications for black flags and many other things; all with editable sound effects at will). All this was never been possible with any of the Ninco power bases. In this case the power base (all models) is used to set the slot cars from controllers and supply electricity to the track, only.
THE ELECTRONIC PARTS ARE NEW.
YOU BUY:
N⁰ 1 40 cm. straight rail with sensors and USB cable.
Hi everyone :)! My husband and I have recently gotten into racing slot cars with a Carrera digital track we have set up in the house. We have been looking into cars to get us started. My question is: have y'all found the convertible models to be as durable as the hardtops? We are still getting going, sometimes including a ghost car and our daughter, so there is a non-zero amount of crashing. I like the look of some of the convertibles, but don't want to see pieces of them flying everywhere :). Appreciate any help, thank you :)!
For Anthony B. This Can-Am car was the inspiration for a slot.it white kit conversion.
A pretty straight forward chop job. Rear wing supports and front spoilers from sheet styrene. Rear wing with supports and mirrors from a slot.it bag of McLaren bits. Thick roll bar is a black copper wire with most of the strands removed. The decals are homemade except Goodyear and Ferrari logos from a Mitoos F1 sheet. Paint is Tamiya TS Italian red and silver leaf. 10 mm rear wheels and tires in place of stock.
Hello everybody. If you have a Gaugemaster gear puller/pusher please let me know if it is of metal construction like the Ninco original. I see them advertised as "Anodised finish" but to my mind that doesn't mean the unit is actually made of metal.
Many thanks, Leo
Professor Motor Controller Knob Panel
to easily remember which knob does what and how, and what your settings were.
https://www.printables.com/model/987444-...knob-panel
The lack of any indication on the controller for what the knobs do, or which way to turn them to increase or decrease a setting continues to confuse even long term users of the controller. This would ideally be a sticker, but I can't make stickers, so I did this.
If you have a printer capable of filament switching, you can use the MMU files and assign colors appropriately. If you don't have such a printer, you can use the EMB (embossed) file and color the raised portions later, or change filament after the first two layers to create contrast.
You will also need to adjust the positions of the knobs. First, turn the knob to one extreme. Using a 1.5mm hex key/driver, loosen the set screw on the side of the knob (opposite the pointer) and then align the pointer to the appropriate tick on the dial (MIN or MAX) before tightening the set screw. It should then be able to turn the other way and end up on the opposite tick on the dial.
The MMU models are 1mm tall, and the EMB model is .8mm tall in total. You can scale/resize the Z axis as desired to make them thinner or thicker. The holes in the panel should have enough gap for the knobs to turn easily within them.
Use CAD or the TEXT tool in your Slicer to add personal features like a name or logo.
Attach the print to your controller with double sided tape or glue.



















