Happy New Year! I am returning after enjoying slot car racing in the late 60s and 70s. As such I want a scenic track that for nostalgic reasons uses many Scalextric elements from that period. I am not yet retired so in addition to a woeful lack of modelling skills I lack time. I do appreciate there are some professional track constructors out there but much of the job I need doing is sourcing and refurbishing classic Scalextric accessories…

It occurs to me that someone on this website might appreciate that sort of work in addition to creating the scenery I need and so forth. I am happy to pay a very fair price for the job to someone with excellent modelling skills. I have a clear idea of how I want my track and hopefully the forum moderator will allow me to send them the detailed brief for the project so that they can forward it to anyone interested?

I must add that I find this website an excellent discovery - hugely informative and very well designed. As someone involved in the motorsport media, the only thing I can criticise is the apparent lack of ‘About’ information. I would really like to know who is/are behind this brilliant resource… Whoever you are, keep up the extremely good work!
Ian

Progress has been slow, but, the body is finally done..........

Before the rivet counters jump in,...I did replace a few bits here and there as the kit (1966) was missing a few bits, and, as a kid, I did invariably modify most of the kits I was given/bought, so, I do not feel all that bad   

The chassis is a day or two away from being finished, and I will post a pic. then....

Cheers,...and, Happy New Year

Chris Walker

The paint is Tamiya "Champagne" gold........a fantasy livery, but one that would look at home on a 65/65 USRRC/CamAm car.



A crummy pic. but, the gauges actually look quite realistic.



I have made an aluminum rear lip spoiler.......debating whether to stick it on.



The wheels are not form AMT...they are 1 piece cast aluminum Lola T70 wheels from Russkit,.......very cool and, gorgeous QQ



The as yet unfinished chassis,...a few wire braces, a brass front axle tube, and a heavily modified AMT 36D motor

I dropped my Monogram Kingcobra early this year and smashed the body. Finally got a new one finshed and added some of ChrisW's chassis mods as well which I hope will stop it being quite so wayward at times.

   

   

Good day to you all, I am based in West Yorkshire, England and just purchased my first Slot Car set for a bit of family fun, well ok admittedly more for dads fun initially but the young daughter and my wife have become hooked too so much so that my wife has now requested her own car and control lol.

I had been looking for a few weeks at the various systems available and although based in the UK, I went with the 1/32 Carrera Digital wireless set mainly due to the German DTM cars. The thing is, I am not really a motor sport fan but the Carrera DTM cars just looked so cool, I was hooked. 

We have built the set up a few times in the past week, only room big enough to lay the complete track out is the living room (yes I understand Carrera track is 1/24 scale so Scalextric would have a been a smaller footprint) but I had been thinking of getting the loft boarded out anyway so this might be the push I needed.

Anyway I am looking forward to exploring this forum and building my interest for slot cars over the coming year.

Happy New Year to you all.

Paul

There's a car that's been on my radar for quite a while. It's not a Lamborghini, Ferrari, or Maserati. It's a VW Beetle from the 1954 Carrera Panamericana. An ARII static kit with an oval rear window seemed an obvious choice for a good start.

   

The livery I would like to make is number 262. You can clearly see it's red from this black & white photo. 

   

This next photo helps show the colour better.

   

The body was molded in red. But it had no shine. Nothing a can of Tamiya bright red won't fix.

   
   
   

A chassis was created.

   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

More details to follow... Eventually.

The only hint that this was made on a new milling machine is the crown gear relief. 

Thank you very kindly for looking.

hi I have posted on a different forum my latest work in miniaturising decoders. And thought I should post a quick summary here too.

As a hobbyist venture I have built functioning SSD-compatible digital decoders with dimensions of 10.8mm by 5.4mm. The thickness is 4.4mm. The decoders have motor/brake circuits and change lanes and count laps on SSD powered tracks.

The two images below show a functional decoder at these dimensions installed into a 1/64 scale MicroScalextric car. The second image clearly shows the surface mount 3mm IR LED for car identification.

   

   

I am now working on smaller designs... next a 8mm x 5mm design... then smaller still :)

c

Started refurbishing a 250LM that has been languishing in a box for 25 odd years. and ....... how the heck to you remove wheel inserts

I have tried , knife scalpel,screwdriver to no avail..... so before I cut them out - any ideas???


   

Before I started scratch building. I had seen and heard about chassis being made out of brass/wire, popsicle sticks, or even hockey pucks. I'm not sure how competitive the hockey puck chassis was. But it must have been funny to see.

Brass, wire, and solder were strange to me. I was more comfortable with a drill press, disk sander, and bandsaw.

We have a store in Canada called Home Depot.

   

I have searched their metal rack many times before for other reasons. Might it be possible to find something that would work for a slot car?

   

Make sure it's 3/4" inch square aluminum by 1/16" wall thickness. I have recently found out that there are a lot of thin imposters out there.

   

A length of tubing was cut a bit longer than the space for the chassis.

   

One end was sanded square to measure and mark all the holes from that end when the part was flipped 90 degrees.

   

The wheelbase had to be figured out first. Tires were glued onto the aluminum wheels and trued on a tire-truing machine to fit the car. That's another thread in itself.

The wheels were laid down on a bench or table. The body was slid into the wheels until they centered themselves in the wheel arches. Then the distance between the center of the axles was measured. It doesn't work this easily for every car. But it will usually be close. Measure three times if needed. It's worth triple checking.

   
   
   

The guide and body posts need to be figured out by checking how much room you have inside the body. Don't forget to allow extra distance for the guide to turn.

I made a drawing for each car before drilling anything.

   

Several different cars may show up for this tutorial. It's not about any one car. This method can be adapted to many different bodies.

Now that we have measurements and metal. The measurements need to be scribed onto the aluminum.

A permanent marker was used to mark the general area where the lines would go. This helps to see the scribed lines clearly. The metal was measured with a digital calliper. The calliper was set to half the distance. Then another larger piece of metal was used to set the callipers against while the callipers were slid down the tubing to scribe a line. Then the 3/4" tubing was flipped 180 degrees and scribed again. The small distance between the two lines is the closest thing to center I can get without more complicated measuring equipment.

   

The tubing was turned 90 dregrees, and the guide/body post distances were marked.

   

Here is the aluminum tubing measured and ready for drilling.

   

The next section will show what tools are required, and how to go about the process of machining.

   

The third of our five-date Winter Series is coming up fast! This one is NHRA-themed - featuring Micro Scalextric Street Stock, Micro Scalextric Super Stock 6.0, NHRA 4-Gear Funny Car & Pro Stock - and some NHRA Auto World Top Fuel match-racing. Qualifying is on Tuesday 12 January, racing on Wednesday 13 January and all the coverage is right here on SlotRacer Online.

The full regulations and format are in the Winter Series Preview thread here.

The Track: The Rock County Eighth Mile is a seven-foot timed strip (1/8 mile in true HO scale) made from the new 2019 Micro Scalextric sectional track. Cars must be fitted with braids to run on this track. Power for the first event is 12 volts, 4 amps per lane. Power to both lanes is triggered by a single switch firing a 2-channel relay board. Timing is Trackmate Drag Basic. There is a two-foot shutdown with dynamic braking and a well-padded catch box.

Sending cars: Aim for your cars to arrive in Brighton by the previous Saturday so they can be quarantined and then registered for qualifying on Tuesday. Please also pack in a small box (max height 7.5cm if possible) and pay for your postage online so no-one needs to go near a post office. These races are designed to be full-on social distancing events that are accessible to everyone in these difficult times and can continue during local or national lockdowns.

How to enter: Add a reply with your interest and the classes you'll be entering - one car per class per person. Family members and friends are very welcome to enter too. I will message you with the address to send cars to. You will need to pay for return postage. Otherwise there is no race fee.

Entries Race #8 - 12-13 January 2021

Micro Scalextric Street Stock: Clive, Iain, Dave, Hank, Al, Bill, Rebecca, Andy, Jeremy, Jane, Pete, Sue, Jerome, Alan, Laura, Jeff, Doug, David, Dylan, Noah (20)

Micro Scalextric Super Stock 6.0: Jane, Jeremy, Rebecca, Andy Pl, Hank, Al, Dave, Iain, Andy Ph, Bill, Clive, Alan (12)

NHRA 4-Gear Funny Car & Pro Stock: Doug, David, Rebecca, Andy, Iain, Jerome / Pete, Clive, Alan (8)

NHRA Top Fuel match-racing: Noah, Dylan, Rebecca, Andy, Clive, Alan (3 x 2)

hi. new to slot cars.  have SCX nascar, C1 and curve set.  just having fun with my kids.