I seem to have been able to sneak past security and come in.  Maybe no one will notice.

I an noddaz, otherwise known as Scott.  I like toying with, modifying and otherwise messing around with slot cars.  Sometimes I even get to race.

As to what "scale" I like, the the answer would be "yes".  I have HO, 1/32 and 1/24.  I even have a few 1/43 cars somewhere.

And I am supposed to be working right now.  Shhhh, don't tell.

Scott

   

Design and manufacture of 3D printed slot car chassis' and associated components,

The majority of chassis' take the Slot.It range of motor mounts.

Full list attached, others chassis' being added regularly.

Most also available on Shapeways, link below;

Amato Slot Car Design by Amato_Chassis_Design - Shapeways Shops

For those on Facebook search 'Amato Slot Car Design' lots of photos or please ask

Email; angelo.amato@live.co.uk

   

Design and manufacture of 3D printed slot car chassis' and associated components,

The majority of chassis' take the Slot.It range of motor mounts.

Full list attached, others chassis' being added regularly.

Most also available on Shapeways, link below;

Amato Slot Car Design by Amato_Chassis_Design - Shapeways Shops

For those on Facebook search 'Amato Slot Car Design' lots of photos or please ask

Email; angelo.amato@live.co.uk

Does anybody know why these have become sought after all of a sudden?
   
There are loads of them about and until very recently they fetched a tenner or less on eBay. The price has suddenly doubled for no apparent reason, I sold one recently for £21 and another has just gone for £27. Ten different people were bidding on mine. These are used examples not mint boxed. It is nothing special, just a flashing light sequence so what is going on?

I like these cars, and to be fair they run pretty good out the box on my wood track.
But I have some things I wanted to change for aesthetic reasons.

1. I feel the wheels are to far outside of the arches if you compare them to pics of actual legends cars.
2.I don't like the gap between chassis and body when viewed from the side.
3. I wanted them to sit lower.
4. I wanted to use my preferred tyres
5. I don't like the play in the standard guide blade arrangement.

Point 1 - The stock car does have some spacers fitted which you could remove and trim the axles down to lose around 2mm from the (circa 65mm) track width.
The tight areas are the bush mounting on the rear opposite the gear side, and the width of the front with bushings.
I wanted a little more, and with some hubless alu. 8.5mm wide wheels mated to some suitable tyres and 1mm offset rear bushings with thinner walls than stock helped, and lowers the back end by 1mm. 
Combine that with my wheel tyre combo of 20mm diameter compared to the stock 21.5mm and we have lowered the rear by 1.7mm already.
In total I can now bring rear track in to 60mm and not rub (although I will likely move them out a bit from that). That is with a Slot.it sidewinder gear in place too.

Point 5 -  I usually address this on pioneer cars by reaming out the guide mounting hole and inserting a suitable diameter brass tube and use the Pioneer deeper guides.
In this instance I was going to use some Revoslot guides rattling around in my spares box, and wanted the recess in the chassis filled in as this wasn't required for the guides and braid I will use.
I had some guide mounts from Scaleauto universal chassis in the spares dept, so I used those and a dremel to achive that objective.
I also pilfered the adjustable front axle mounts from the Scaleauto universal chassis and shaped to fit.
This removes the need for front bushings and allows me to match the rear track width reduction while still using a pair of 0.5mm spacers and a tiny bit of sideways float on the front axle.

And of course using the alu. wheels addresses point 4.

Here is the chassis after guide and front axle modifications.



Offset bushings, not quite perfectly placed yet as was just mocking up for clearances.



Moving onto point 2.
This is what I wasn't fond of:



So I dremeled the front and rear body mounting posts down by approx. 2mm.
This also required making a small recess for the exhaust on the rear arch.



I also trimmed some off the chassis sides and opened out the chassis holes a litttle . I will be using 7mm MB slot smooth shank body screws to help body float.
Then it was the chassis support rails that were the limiting factor. So I ground them away and we are getting into the right ballpark.



But naturally that did leave the chassis weakened.
So I cut some square section brass tubing to make strengthening rails further inboard, and added some weight up front. Pictured before epoxying it all in with J-B Weld.



Progress is halted while I wait for the epoxy to set.
J-B weld is a slow setting epoxy. They do a quick set version but it isn't as strong, so patience is the key.

Further updates in due course :)

Just finished building my Jaguar SS-100 slot car. I had an old 1/32 scale AMT model kit of the 1936 Jaguar SS-100 and an old, beat-up Scalextric MG-Lola slot car chassis that I decided to meld together into a modernized Jag SS-100 race car. Well, maybe a Junker that might qualify for the 24 Hours of LEMONS. Turns out the wheelbase of the MG-Lola fit pretty well under the Jag. Here are some photos of the build process and the finished car on my home track, Overlook Raceway Park:

The wheelbase on the chassis was about right but it was too wide for the stock Jag body. So, I split the body down the middle and grafted in about 3/8 inches of styrene to widen the body. No longer a stock 1936 Jag SS-100.



The MG-Lola chassis has working front lights so I added a couple of headlight cans to make driving lights.


I painted the body with a red oxide undercoat, sprayed it with hairspray and sprinkled on a bit of kosher salt and then covered everything with a coat of Tamiya Racing Green (British Racing Green). After the paint was dry I scraped off the salt and sanded the green topcoat to reveal the rusty red primer underneath. After all, this Jag is a more than 80 year old car.


I also weathered the decals by lightly sanding and chipping them until they looked appropriately beat up.


I scratchbuilt a roll bar and added the wing from the MG-Lola to help add some racing down-force to the Jag.


Clear lenses were added to the driving lights and a windscreen was fashioned out of some clear plastic packaging that was laying around.


The MG-Lola chassis is a bit long but it makes a pretty good front splitter for the Jag, so I just left it at its stock length.


Out back I added a couple of tailpipes (coated them with a Molotow pen) and added a mirror to the inside of the windscreen.


Here she is, ready to go on her first shake-down run at Overland Raceway Park. Note the mismatched wheels on front and back, goes along with mash-up theme of the whole car.


The underside is stock MG-Lola. I mounted a couple of styrene tubes inside the Jag body, drilled a couple of new holes in the chassis and screwed the chassis to the body. I enlarged the screw holes enough so there's a little body float on the chassis. Finally, I put some new Paul Gage urethane tires on the back. Ready to roll.


Here she is, just out of the garage and on track, ready for her first lap of Overlook Raceway Park.


After the first 40 laps, her best time was 7 seconds flat, not too bad for the 65 foot Scalextric/SCX racecourse in my basement. Some tuning and driving experience should be able to get her down into the 6.5 second range which is pretty good for me at Overlook Raceway Park.


Cruising past the picnicking spectators on the main straight. Now we to find some appropriate competition for the Jag. I do have an old Mercedes SSK model kit somewhere around here and several working chassis that might fit under the Mercedes. In the meantime, we'll see how we do against more modern, and less rusty, competition.

Some people say the Lotus 30 is similar to the Lotus 40, but with 10-less mistakes. The I-beam chassis was profitable from a marketing point of view. But a bit too flexible. Many well known drivers said it was a handlful of trouble to drive on the track.

The slot car however is another story. It has it's own challenges in being a really low and flat body.

   

A scratch-built aluminum chassis designed for a precision bearing fit.

   

I started out wanting to use a BWNC1 slow motor. This is a very old build with a few newbie mistakes. The Lotus curse still finds a way to live on through slot car builders.

   

I chose the wrong motor and didn't measure the clearance before making the chassis. I figured "I'll make it fit after"... NOT! That was the last time I didn't plan every step. There's no room for a driver. Oops.

   
   

The BWNC1 was removed, and a slim-line BWMS050 took its place.

   

Most of the body details are complete.

I saw a low budget Lotus-30 on the internet with twin carbs instead of the injectors. The same was created here.

A special firewall had to be made to hide part of the monster hole some dummy made while I wasn't looking. 

   

The driver went on a diet and lost some weight under his arm and torso.

   

A tonneau cover was added to futher hide the crater. I'm glad it came with the body kit. The driver has a convenient arm rest now. I would paint the motor black. But our rules say motor labels and ID must be readable.

   
   
   
   
   

Aluminum tubing made up the exhaust pipes.

   
   

Thank you very kindly for looking.

   

hi guys 
having purchased the afx jaguar challenge HO set 
i thought i would service the cars before i ran them 
being new to HO i wasn't a careful as i should have been 
and when one of the pickup / brush / ski thingies fell off , the spring underneath went walk about also 
found the blade thing , but the spring has pinged away , i cannot find 

my question is :-
where can i buy spares for these cars ?
apparently AFX Turbo chassis 

also thought i would check if the lights worked on one of the cars 
i now know they are 6v , since the 12v tester i used blew the little light board inside the car body 
just gotta love learning new lessons   

kev

Hi all,
More cars from my clubmate. description below picture, postage to the UK is plus £4 for up to 2 cars, other destinations will need to be calculated.
As usual mesage me for any details or questions, discount can be negotiated for multiple purchases.
Payment preferreded by bank transfer or ipaypal as "friends and Family" so no fee's for me :)





NSR Ford GT40 Martini, Boxed and unused £56





NSR Corvette C7R, looks like new, set up by me and test laps only.
Tungsten putty weight added, glued rear stock supergrip tyres. £52





NSR Mosler, Boxed good used condition looks like pre bought trued and glued small diameter ultras on 16mm rims with Porsche inserts ! 
£50

Thanks for looking :)

Hi all,
More cars from my clubmate. description below picture, postage to the UK is plus £4 for up to 2 cars, other destinations will need to be calculated.
As usual mesage me for any details or questions, discount can be negotiated for multiple purchases.
Payment preferreded by bank transfer or ipaypal as "friends and Family" so no fee's for me :)







Ninco Mitsibishi Lancer WRC, boxed good used modified condition. Ninco Aloy Wheels with etched metal inserts All round, Fitted with BRM F22 tyres. 
Weight added, Proshocks removed and bushings glued in, scaleauto guide and 20k motor, light bracing to floorpan under rear axle. £27





Ninco Ford Focus WRC, boxed good used modified condition. Ninco Aloy Wheels with etched metal inserts All round, Fitted with BRM F22 rear tyres, stock fronts. 
Weight added, Scaleauto guide and 20k motor. £27

Thanks for looking ;)