Ventura Highway

All AFX Tomy track except for the 18" turns purchased from Joe before AFX made them.



So many cars...  So little time...

Have got a New SL2 2020 ARC PRO set for my Grandchildren! BOTH cars worked first time after assembly. 
However, after EVENTUALLY installing a working ARC PRO app ONE of the cars 'countdowns'  the laps OK (on both lanes) the other car doesn't countdown on either lane. I'm thinking it's the connection of that car with the track - ANY IDEAS  OR HOW TO CORRECT?  Swap  'braids' between cars maybe?

One thing lacking from our favourite toy is the sound of a real engine. There have been a few attempts over the years with a distinct lack of success but is it time to take a fresh look at it? Previously it relied on an external source to provide the sounds with the twin auto screams of the 60s, Scalextric Sound Track in the 70s and speakers built into hand throttles in the 80s. Fly also had a few cars with some fairly rubbish onboard sound.

However, the model train world has been fully geared up with this for many years and the range of sounds that their locos can emit is mind boggling. DCC sound chips are widely available and virtually every 00 gauge loco comes with the facility to fit sound. I have even seen N gauge locos fitted with it and they are tiny! If you can fit sound chips and miniature speakers into one of those then a 1/32 slot car should be a doddle. It is increasingly being fitted into R/C cars as well so the technology for the engine sounds already exists. Digital slot cars must be a prime candidate for experimentation I would have thought.


Apart from the technical aspect of making sound chips work in slot cars there are some downsides to the idea though:
1) It is bloody expensive! Sound chips and speakers for trains come in at about a £100 a pop fully fitted.

2) Locos don't have a gearbox but cars do. Changing gear sounds six times in the length of the average home circuit straight could be a bit tricky!

3) Toy trains don't normally crash. Making a system robust enough to withstand slot car accidents may also be difficult.

All this is just idle musing on my part but I would be interested in your opinions on the subject, especially from our resident electronic experts. After you have finished making chips the size of a pinhead perhaps you could turn your thoughts sound-wards.

I have had a Howmet TX body From the Extaz range for about 15 years waiting to be built. I have been working on it for last week. Spent a lot of time cutting screens as they fit top down as opposed to vacuum formed that fit inside up. As well as that I have had to create my own interior, with my very limited skills in casting this took quite a bit of time. 


What do I find when checking decal placement,  ............

   
   


It is left hand drive   

Back to drawing board. ??

Would yall mind if I drag Sparky over here to do some rebuilds???



We snowed in right now, but we'll get back at it when it warms up a bit...

As the weather is getting a tad warmer I though I would brave the shed and start something I got a few weeks ago .
MRRC Cheater white kit ,I've sprayed it some sort of metallic blue ,Going to be mated to a PP chassis ,slot it wheels and a 25k motor 
Major surgery was needed on the driver tray to get it to for over the motor .
Fair way to go yet will keep you posted

It's time to clear out the boxes of abandoned/unstarted projects and focus on the stuff I might actually get around to. All the following cars are used, in various conditions as noted. 
Most will just need a bit of TLC like cleaning and lubricating moving parts to get them running well.
I can take further photos or provide more info on condition if needed, please ask. 

Selling in the following bundles, I don't really want to split them up.

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Payment via paypal please. 

Postage to UK only, for 4-6 cars should be £4 for 2nd class recorded or could do low value ones for £3  2nd class (at your risk).

Could also be collected from CR6 close to J6 M25 to save postage

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Let's start with the NON RUNNERS:


Bundle 1. 
C135 tyrrell in box: rear wing missing: no guide/brushes so can’t test for power

C121 tyrrell: missing rear wing: no brushes so can’t test for power

C012 shadow (white): body with motor and guide only

C126 JPS black: body parts only
ALL for £12






Bundle 2. 
C699 Mercedes DTM & C701 Opel Calibra DTM 
Both are body/chassis only, need motors etc
BOTH for £10






Bundle 3. 
C2478 & C2479 Red & Yellow Boxsters
C2506 2x Silver Audi TTs
All four are body & chassis only, wheels all spin ok, one TT has a broken hole on chassis where the guide clips into
£15 for all four





4. C2364 Mitsubishi Lancer WRC 
Body/chassis only, needs motor etc: missing spoiler
£8






5. C379 Capri 
Body/chassis only, needs motor etc. I have the blue front & rear spoilers too but they'll need gluing back on.
£10








6. SCX Ferrari 333SP
Body/chassis only, needs motor etc
£8





Bundle 7. C113 Triumph TR7 
Motor doesn’t turn when power put to wires: includes spare yellow bodyshell.
£12






Bundle 8. C310 MG Maestro & MG Metro 
Maestro bodyshell only, Metro bodyshell & chassis
£12 for BOTH







Lamborghini Mercielago, not Scalextric, unknown brand (possibly Proteus?)
Nice model with strong motor but rear tyres are rock hard so although motor spins fine it doesn’t go that fast.
£12







10. C2034 Audi A4 Repsol 
Motor runs, lights work but missing front axle and either the rear axle or wheel is bent so doesn’t run properly

Been wanting to do this for ages. Taken the basic c81 Cooper and painted it to reflect Surtees in 65. 

   

   

Now for the Lotus ?

I have had several Supershells F1s   Waiting to be built. Fortunately I had. K’s mk1 motor that the chassis was designed for, which made the build a lot easier. The added suspension is mine.

   
   
   
   

This is a build up of a semi-destroyed car I picked up a few years ago. The suspension is partly model version and Partly mine. I also created the screen. Not in the great class of builds but I do like it