I've got a couple of cars with stripped threads in body posts.  I assume the simple answer is to use over-size screws, but can anyone suggest what size to use, please?  I never know how to measure screws.  

The cars in question (at the moment.....) are a Team Slot Celica and an SCX Cordoba.

Thanks in advance,
Stuart.

Interested to know what you all want from Santa or gave already ordered from him? ??

I have an offer to buy a "C1330 Digital Platinum Set" plus a "C1201 Digital Super GT" plus a couple of extra cars (10 in total) for ca 500 Euro.

I recently scored a "C1404M Scalextric ARC PRO - 24h Le Mans" (plus a bunch of extra wireless hand controllers) plus some odd bits and pieces like small R3 and R4 curves for 180 Euro. I also have and an old C1083. But no pitlane and only two working cars.

I am building a permanent track in my garage and plan to start with the Arc Pro setup, but thinking ahead I might want to switch to the C7042 + PC system in the future - hence considering the "offer" above 

I am not made of money and perhaps it's better spent on Christmas gifts for my grand child instead? 

Whats your thoughts?

Bonjour,
sloteur Français de NEUVIC sur L'ISLE en DORDOGNE (24650), retraité. Je pratique ce loisir en souvenir du temps où je pouvais conduire des autos à l'échelle 1. 
Je suis dans un club où il y a 3 pistes dont une en bois. Daans notre club il y a quelques ANGLAIS qui sont TRES SYMPAS

I’ve  designed some Head & Tail light PCBs for Scalextric cars that have Neopixel type LEDs.

These are multi colour LEDs, controlled by data via a microcontroller and can be daisy chained together to form strips or panels. One microcontroller via 3 or 4 wires can control several hundred at once and address each one individually, controlling colour and brightness.  

Here’s a rear light PCB to fit Scalextric cars under test. >>>>>

Hello all,

I recently asked if anyone had one of the Scalextric cardboard buildings that were included in the  "Super Stox" and "Banger raceway" sets (Linky)    and my brother subsequently found some photographs on-line. 
Armed with the photos, I decided it was time to build my own. The original units sat across Scalextric track and I have Policar and Carrera so had to widen mine slightly. I wanted to make it a decent replica so left the windows and sky-lights blacked out rather than opened and glazed but the posters and such have been left off. 
I'm quite pleased with the result although I don't currently have a location for it (LOL).
The walls and roof are made using photo-mount board with the brickwork glued on. 

   

   

Leo
PS - Whats the betting that Magnetic Racing soon offer such a thing?

Hello there from the States,
 
I’ve been getting the urge to get back into slot racing again.  I had an old AFX and TRX track back in the day and after getting an urge about 10 years ago, I decided I wanted to get back in with the ability to change lanes.  So I ended up buying the Digital Platinum 6 car set and found some extra track.  I set it up, started racing, and then started reading, probably the posts from the same people who will likely answer my questions (Andy, Riko, DrC, and MrFlippant), which led to all the capabilities the digital world for racing offers.  However, at that time, it seemed there was no cohesion, you had to buy extra parts, software, a serial/usb cable, computer, and then it was a little buggy as well.  The Pit Lane game was something that I found would add a lot of fun to the hobby, but I think at that time, it was in the early days of having to solder in sensors, cut track, and then add lights – before the “actual” pit lane piece was created I believe by Riko (nice work!).  Well, then I bought a new home, moved, and the box was put in a closet and at least 10 years have passed since I glanced at it and wondered what was new in the world of digital slot racing…
 
So here is what I gathered (mind you, I want the most out of my experience so looking for the “best” setup in terms of enjoyment which may require dealing with bugs in software.  So, there are two ways to run digital, the fairly easy way and the slightly harder way.  So I figured after reading some more on these forums, why not just buy the new digital ARC pro platinum set because by the time I buy the conversion to the new ARC Pro + the things I don’t have in the 6 car platinum set, I basically get a lot of extras for free including track and cars not to mention the ability to go wireless.  Then have the best of both worlds.  Andy has some really good posts on both systems and how to set them up which I will try to link for each scenario because my biggest issue has been splitting my time between searching posts on ARC Pro and the APB C7042.  So this brings me to my first question which pertains to both sets:
 
Is my thinking correct here:
If I look online, a pit lane track now exists that you can order and it states that it “has sensors”.  I assume this is the same track piece in the ARC set and now a working setup of having the sensor similar to the pit lane game – so you can now incorporate pits (weather, tire wear, fuel, etc.) into both digital systems with software (by software I’ll just go with Magic for ARC and RCS64 for the APB) and modify a setting based on where you locate the pits in accordance to the base (with the base either being in the pit window or outside in regard to counting laps).
 
So, next question, is this correct:
Many “problem” configuration posts I’ve read seem to point toward bugs in the software or hardware or both.  The above on lap counts was one, and then the speed issue hitting the lap counter in the old APB was another.  I assume firmware has fixed these issues and the most recent software for both is likely pretty stable.
 
I can read the initial manuals and things to get setup and have no issues with software tinkering, so on to the configuration pieces and I’ll start with ARC Pro since it seems much simpler:
Andy, thanks again because I thought this post was pretty encompassing with links for any other info that a person may need if they choose to move in this direction:
Scalextric ARC Pro Platinum GT - is it worth it? (slotracer.online)
It has links for ARC Pro guide, MagicARC app, and setting up a GT Endurance format.  Is this link missing anything else that might be pertinent?  My thought is I can set this up and start racing while working on the APB if I choose to go in that direction or simply as a backup plan.
 
Now, on the slightly harder configuration with the ABP 7042:
First, this post Add-ons for C7042 Advanced 6 Car Powerbase (slotracer.online) has most of the links embedded in it that would likely get me up and running.  Is the Riko cable still the best thing out there at the moment?  And Riko, is this link in the post the best place to get this, being that I reside in the States?
Buy the cable, download the firmware, upgrade the APB, buy the desired racing software and load it on a PC, configure, and start racing - although that is probably the start of opening up all kinds of other things to do.
 
I found this to be most comprehensive tech data with links:
Really Useful Technical Links (Scalextric C7042 & ARC-Pro) - including car chipping database! | SlotForum
 
I don’t mind reading, but I wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something since some of these posts are a bit dated on the APB, but I’m not sure the info is.  I appreciate any help or advice offered.

I was away from home for a few days last week and was due a 48 hour tracked parcel delivery during that time so I duly went on the Royal Mail website and rescheduled it for today's date. I also added my neighbour as an alternative delivery address if I happened to be out. I received an email acknowledgement that this would be done.

Last Friday 8th, while still away, I received another email telling me that my parcel had been delivered and left in my 'safe space'  underneath the front of my car on my drive! Fortunately my neighbour spotted it before it was pinched. The Royal Mail go from bad to worse, the words 'bunk up' and 'brothel' come to mind!

I wanted a simple Infra-Red (IR) Light Emitting Diode (LED) which can be programmed to strobe using any Scalextric Sport Digital (SSD) car ID signal.

The result is a small circuit board which measures 9mm x 10.5mm and which connects directly onto a standard 3mm LED and which is controlled via a 4 wire input. The device is known as a Smart IR LED.

   

The inputs come straight from the car’s digital decoder and consist of the following four signals:

+3.3V
Decoder +LED signal
Decoder -LED signal
0V

To use this new system component, instead of wiring an external IR LED to the decoder in the usual way, in this case the two LED signal wires are connected to the Smart IR LED together with two additional connections for power i.e. +3.3V and 0V. Power is taken direct from the decoder.

The Smart IR LED can take as input the standard lane change signals from various digital decoder manufacturers (e.g. Slot.it/oXigen, SCX-A or Scorpius) and it converts these signals to a mark-space-ratio strobe (with Lane change signal inversion) that follows the Scalextric protocol and therefore which functions with SSD lane changers.

Key points:

1/ The Smart IR LED can be programmed to any ID in the range 1-36. This means up to 36 cars can race together.

2/ The Lane Change function can be activated either by an incoming SSD signal with any mark-space-ratio (therefore oXigen and Scorpius decoders could be used) or with a simple high/low input signal as available from SCX-A decoders.

3/ This approach is compatible with standard SSD lane changers for IDs 1-14. It is further compatible with all IDs 1-36 when used with the ATtiny processor upgrade for SSD lane changers which I have shown elsewhere on this Forum.

4/ This approach, hopefully, will enable oXigen, SCX-A and Scorpius wireless systems to run alongside each other. And, as above, each will trigger SSD lane changers (either standard versions for 14 cars or ATtiny upgraded versions for up to 36 cars).

5/ The approach avoids any requirement to reverse engineer the products from Slot.it/oXigen, SCX or Scorpius - this is simply a ‘piggy-back’ approach.

6/ The Smart IR LED is used for car identification and lane change signalling. It is not a solution for vehicle control - this relies of track packets and/or 2.4GHz packets.

7/ I should add, this is an experimental approach and not a commercial product at this stage.

The experimentation and fun continue…

c