Looking for a type of sensor or something to imbed into the track to send a signal to a counter or sound card to " go off " when a car passes

Are there any clubs that use Race Coordinator? If so , how do you run the race nights? Do nyou run over time or laps? Have you found all the different ways of running the meeting?   Any help would be gratefully received,  Johnh

  Yes me again, I am thinking of later in the year doing a proxy event based on Raid cars, I know a couple of people who may act as hosts in the fullness of time when they have their tracks fully set up. And I have a SCX Raid set and some additional sections of track and bridges I am putting together.

So my question is are there any similarly minded slot off-road slot racers who might be interested in such an idea as a Proxy event ?
It would be nice to have one in the UK, I don't see anything on line of any already established club or proxy event

Not only do Staffs Slot Cars UK import and distribute brands such as Avant Slot, Team Slot and Mitoos, they also commission their own products, including wheels, bearings and now some tools...

   

Arriving later this month are a range of wrenches, screwdrivers, allen keys and grub screws. The keys and wrenches are in the normal 0.9, 1.3 and 1.5mm sizes, plus there will be small cross-head screwdrivers in the same style.

   

Also on its way is a magnetic tray - ideal for keeping track of small metal parts like screws. This is designed to be small enough to fit into a race box to use at events. It's the same black colour scheme to match the wrenches.

   

Finally, Staffs are adding to their range of bronze bearings with these racing ball bearings. These are the same standard sizes as the previous products.

Thanks to Steve for the pictures and info. We'll have more details when they arrive. Expect to see them for sale at Pendle Slot Racing.

As in previous years, this fair is more than worth a visit, with exhibitors from the Netherlands, France, UK and Germany, and many private sellers
food and drinks are available at reasonable prices
More info via fb or via mail:
vanborren at yahoo.com  
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I'm looking for a donor 1/32 Dodge Daytona or Plymouth Superbird, only need the bodyshell and will accept some damage, I need it for a proposed build.
UK only, many thanks.

Fresh from body assembly.
I did have a fight with the front grill, its bottom tab was fouling the chassis, so in the end I bent it up inside, then had to re bend the rest to fit properly as it doesn't take much to pull it out of shape !
Once I learned the door rails were a bit of a flex to fit, it all went together easily enough.











The " Ford Arizona Gold" isn't quite as Bronze as I had hoped, the perils of using pics of real cars on the internet !
And I still can't seem to get the finish I like with these Hycote rattle cans, I need Halfords to open up so I can get back to what I know, or perhaps I'll try some Tamiya or Humbrol spary cans next time !

Since I took the pics, I have painted the inside of the wheel arches and any visible posts matt black.

Decals designed by me and sent to be printed by Colin of C&C Designs.

And just to be a a little different, I thought I would do the wheels smoked silver:



The plan is to keep the chassis stock, apart from moding for a Scaleauto guide (I thought the white kits came with the extra Pioneer 7mm guides as per the normal cars, apparently not   ).

I will be swapping out the motors for 13k units I got from China to try, and using the above tyres as they have a little smaller dimensions than the stock items.
Those are WASP urethanes #13 for Pioneer Dodge Chargers. 
I also have the same fitment from Paul Gage, but they are closer in size to the Pioneer tyres, so I am hoping the WASP grip as nicely as PG's do on my track as I prefer the smaller size for these cars.

I bought a set of ballast bars to fit in my SRC 205. You get four weights and five grub screws.

When I went to fit the long bars either side of the motor, they seem to just push fit onto the plastic pegs. 

Is that how they are fitted?

Why are there grub screws in the pack of parts?

Hello everybody,

my name is Dominik and I restarted H0-scale slot racing just recently. I’ve already restored my old Aurora cars (MT and G-Plus) from back in the days and a few Tyco 440x2s I bought with a few Tyco Monte Carlo and Grand Prix sets. The last days I restored some old Faller H0-cars I also found in the attic, currently waiting for spare parts.

Having played with Faller in my younger years I’m  currently planning on setting up a permanent 4-lane racetrack with Tyco in the basement. And sometimes I have to do some lap time on my sons Carrera Go circuit, but recently he also prefers racing on dads old H0-racetrack set up on the basement floor. 

Anyone interested in discussing racetrack layouts?

You have to love these ~70's slice of Nascar with Wings !

But I felt Carrera's execution wasn't quite right, wheels were overscale and the rear in the air like an ostrich burying its head in the sand was so wrong.
All the pics I found showed the cars with no rake, or at best an almost imperceptible amount.
I set to fixing that with the help of an Amato Universal Chassis, some 15.8mm Slot.It wheels fitted with NSR Classic tyres.

Originally I was going to run a Slot.it Flat 6 motor, but as I have a nice collection of NC5's I snagged for around £2 a piece, I thought they would make a nicer choice for home use.

That did mean I had to molest the interior for clearance, but I didn't want to lose all the detail, and I needed part of the interiors for mounting post fixing.so I compromised on raising the floor pan using card and re-attaching a shortened driver and seat, while retaining the roll cage and fire extinguisher.
The benefit was also a little weight saving - before and after:





Every little helps 

I cut the posts a fraction shorter than I wanted and screwed them tight to the chassis.
Then after roughening the area the post were going and the top of the post "mushrooms" I glued the post to the body using just enough epoxy to hold it for now.
Then, once dry, I took off the chassis and put a build up of epoxy around the post for extra strength. As per usual, not pretty but that wasn't the priority !



As the nosecone and taillights section was also held in by the original chassis, I cut the ends off and used those, slipped a neoprene washer on both chassis mount posts (thats why i cut the posts fractionaly short) added some weight and buttoned it all up.
The neoprene washers in conjunction with some Sloting Plus body screws give it a nice dampened body rock.





A before and after comparison:





And some gratuitous pics around my track to finish